Plaka, Lasithi Prefecture
Giovanni

What it is
Giovanni sits on the water in Plaka, with the tables looking across the bay towards Spinalonga. On our latest visit, the centre of the meal was a roughly 2 kg rofos, brought to the table whole and described as just out of the sea. The setting and the cooking made the same argument: choose simply and stay close to what came in fresh.
Why it matters
The rofos arrived whole, with lemon and a light dressing alongside it. We also ate grilled calamari and octopus, horta and ahinosalata, with a bottle of Miraval rosé. Everything tasted exceptionally fresh. This is the useful way to approach Giovanni: ask about the day’s fish and build the table around it rather than treating the menu as a checklist.


What to understand before going
The waterfront view is part of the experience, and the table in our photographs looks directly over the bay. The traditional wooden taverna chairs were somewhat uncomfortable during this visit; keep that as a small practical caveat. Dish availability and fish size will vary with the catch.
What stays with you
A whole rofos at the table, two glasses of pale rosé and the water towards Spinalonga: a meal whose strongest impression came from the freshness of the fish and the immediacy of the setting.