Plaka, Lasithi Prefecture
Giovanni

What it is
Giovanni sits on the water in Plaka, its tables looking across the bay toward Spinalonga. On our latest visit, the center of the meal was a roughly 2 kg rofos, brought to the table whole and described as just out of the sea. The setting and the cooking said the same thing: order simply, and stay close to whatever came in fresh.
Why it matters
The rofos arrived whole, with lemon and a light dressing alongside it. We also ate grilled calamari and octopus, horta and ahinosalata, with a bottle of rosé. Everything tasted exceptionally fresh. That is the useful way to approach Giovanni: ask about the day’s fish and build the table around it, instead of working through the menu line by line. After years of desk lunches ordered through an app, asking what came in on the boat today still feels like a small luxury.


What to understand before going
The waterfront view is part of the experience, and the table in our photographs looks straight over the bay. The traditional wooden taverna chairs were somewhat uncomfortable on this visit; count that as a small practical caveat. What's on offer, and the size of the fish, will vary with the catch.
What stays with you
A whole rofos on the table, two glasses of pale rosé, and the water toward Spinalonga: a meal I remember for the freshness of the fish and the sea right beside the table.